Today we talk agility - and specifically weave poles - with Barbara Currier! Whether you're just getting started or stuck and need to problem solve — this is episode for you!

Transcription 

Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods.

Today we'll be talking to Barbara Currier.

In 2004, Barbara and her husband Michael were relocated to Richmond, Va., where she began teaching agility at All Dog Adventures. It was there that Barbara was introduced to Susan Garrett and her foundation-based training, centered around impulse control and relationship-building with your dog.

She continues to train with some of the best handlers in the world and has implemented what she has learned from each of them into her training program. She became heavily involved in the OneMind Dogs handling method in 2014. She has successfully competed in agility with over ten different breeds of dogs.

Along the way, she started her own in-home training and behavioral rehabilitation business. She was the trainer for the Richmond Boxer Rescue and also assisted Southeastern Virginia Golden Retriever Rescue in assessing some of their dogs. Over the years, Barbara has worked extensively with many different rescue organizations in numerous states.

She also worked as an animal wrangler for Marvel's Ant-Man, 90 Minutes in Heaven, the TV series Satisfaction, and various commercials. She is the head dog trainer for the F.I.D.O Program run at Georgia Tech, which creates wearable computing for military, search-and-rescue (SAR), and service dogs.

Hi Barbara, welcome back to the podcast!

Barbara Currier: Hi, thanks for having me.

Melissa Breau: Absolutely! Excited to chat again. To start us out, can you remind listeners who your dogs are and what you're working on with them?

Barbara Currier: Sure. My oldest is Piper. She's a 10-year-old Parson Russell Terrier, and she pretty much just does dock diving. She loves that. She's not happy that the season has ended now, so she's in her winter rest, which doesn't make her real happy, but she loves her dock diving. And then I have Blitz, who is my 9-year-old Border Collie. He is retired from agility. He also does dock diving now, and he is also my medical alert service dog. And then I have Miso. She is my 4-year-old Miniature Poodle. She is my main agility dog right now. She is also a medical alert service dog. And my newest is Eggo. He will turn a year tomorrow. He is my English Cocker that I imported from Europe. He is doing agility. He's not competing yet, he's still very young, he's only going to be a year. But he is hopefully going to have a promising career in agility, and he's also doing dock diving, which he already is obsessed with.

Melissa Breau: That's fun. The waffle, right?

Barbara Currier: Yes, that's the waffle.

Melissa Breau: So I wanted to focus on weave poles today, since I know you have a class on that coming up, but as a non-agility person I'm going to totally admit that some of my questions are a little on the basic side. First off — wow. Without knowing how to train them, if you look at weave poles in general, it seems like such a complex behavior. Can you break it down for us a little bit? What pieces or skills have to come together to have really well-trained weave poles?

Barbara Currier: Weaves are actually my most favorite piece of equipment to teach out of all the agility equipment. It's the hardest behavior for the dogs to learn because it's the most unnatural. But if you look at agility as a whole, it's pretty much all natural behaviors for the dogs, things that you would see them doing if they were out running in the woods, except you don't normally see them weaving through trees. So weave poles is very unnatural, and so it can be quite difficult to teach them that. I find it such a fun puzzle to teach it, and I love to make it a game for them so that they find it as much fun as I do.

The downside on weaves is it can be hard on their bodies, so you just want to make sure that they're physically ready to ask what we want them to do. You want to make sure that they're old enough and that they're strong enough, because it can be quite taxing on them.

One of the parts of weave poles is the dog must learn to always enter with the first pole at their left shoulder and then continue the rhythm through all twelve poles. It's a very specific behavior, and it can be difficult for the dogs to do this at extreme speeds and still maintain all twelve poles. So they have to learn how to use their bodies so that they're at full speed and they can hit all twelve poles. Oftentimes the dogs will pop out if they haven't been taught properly how to do that, or they'll get their entry and not be able to hold on to the poles, because there's a lot of things that come together with weave poles. There's a lot of body awareness, there's a lot of them knowing how to rock their weight back on their haunches to collect to get into the poles, there's footwork involved.

There's two different styles of footwork in poles. There's the swimming or the single-stepping and then there is the bounce stride. Most big dogs single step and most little dogs bounce stride, which looks like a rabbit hopping in between. I say "most" because I do know quite a few big dogs that bounce stride and they do just fine, their weaves are just as fast, it's not a problem. But people sometimes get a little too hung up on the footwork. If they have a big dog and they see their big dog is bounce striding, they don't like that, they want to make them single-stride. But I think it's important to let the dog choose what is most comfortable for their body type and for the way they move, as long as they're not doing a combination of both. That tends to have problems.

But you really want it to become muscle memory for the dog, so that when they're doing the behavior, they're not thinking about it, they're just doing it. That's where the speed comes from. The more that they think about it, the slower it is, the more methodical it is, so we want it to become muscle memory so that they're just going through the motions.

Melissa Breau: Just to make sure everybody's on the same page, single step you're talking about when they go into the weaves and it's, "OK, I'm on my left foot on the left side and my right front foot on the right side," and bounce is when they have both feet on the ground on each side, right?

Barbara Currier: Yes, yes.

Melissa Breau: Awesome. I wanted to make sure because, you know, terminology and stuff. Even not knowing much about the topic, I've heard of things like 2X2 training, I've seen trainers use guide wires, moving poles and gradually bringing them closer together, and things like that. Can you briefly explain what some of the different methods ARE that are out there, what those things are, what people are talking about?

Barbara Currier: There's basically three different methods to training weave poles. There's the 2X2 method, where you teach them — much like it says in the name — you teach them two poles at a time.

The channel method, where it basically looks like a chute of weave poles and you slowly can close the chute — it's the way the base is made so that it slowly comes together — so the dog starts with running down the middle of the poles in a straight line, and then as the poles start to come closer and closer together, the dog has to start weaving to do it.

The third one is the guide wires, where it's guide wires that are put on the poles, so it looks like a maze that the dog walks through and they can learn that way.

Melissa Breau: That's interesting. Which approach do you usually use for your dogs and what are you using in the class?

Barbara Currier: My preference is the 2X2 method. The base of my preference is from the method that I learned from Susan Garrett with her 2X2's, and then I have, over the years, adapted for some things with my own dogs and some holes that I was constantly seeing with dogs that were coming to me.

I'm kind of known as the weave guru in my parts, and so whenever people start having weave problems, they come to me. I kept seeing a lot of the same issues, and even with people that had taught their dogs with 2X2's. But what was interesting was I didn't see the issues with my dogs, and I wasn't sure quite at first what I was doing differently than what everybody else was doing, where my dogs weren't having this issue but other people's were.

I took a young dog that I was just training, and I basically documented every single thing I did to try to find what I was doing differently than what everybody else was doing, and found that it was a lot in my beginning stages of my approaches that would prevent these holes from happening that I was seeing in other people's dogs. And so I have modified it to adding more of that stuff in, and a little bit of other things that I have found here and there that have helped with it, I think.

Melissa Breau: When you say approaches, you mean the dogs approaching the poles, or are you talking about something else?

Barbara Currier: Yes, when the dog approaches the poles. In the class, we do what's called "entries" on an around-the-clock game, so you have your poles in the middle, and you pretend you're standing on a clock and you work through your different entries.

But what I was finding with a lot of people is a lot of people stayed at the straight-on approaches or the more straightforward easy approaches, and I wasn't being methodical about this, I just didn't do it. I did not stay at those approaches much. I stayed at the harder approaches. And so right from the beginning the dogs would learn to bend and hit those weave entries from a more difficult angle and would speed right from the beginning. On two poles, it's easy. The reward comes fast and it's easy to find, and so I was finding that with my dogs I was building up the muscling along their spine right from the beginning and was building up that drive to find the pole, really dig in, and grab that entry. So I do very few easy entries right off from the beginning, and I don't really concern myself with those entries until I start adding in the full six and the full twelve, because I consider those entries easy.

Where those entries become difficult is when the dogs are at full speed and they have to learn how to power down to get into their poles. So I worry about that once I start adding in sequencing and that type of thing, but from the beginning I work those hard entrances right at the first two poles, and it seems to help with some of the fallout that happens down the road, like getting the entry and not being able to hang on to the poles, or missing the entry and going into the second pole, and those types of things.

Melissa Breau: That's really interesting. I was actually going to ask you, this feeds well into what my next question was, which I think our listeners, in particular, are probably pretty familiar with the idea of building up skills gradually, but it seems like there are so many pieces to the weave poles. There are so many different axes that you have to gradually make more difficult. You've got your speed, you're got the number of poles, you've got the entries, you've got the sequencing, your more advanced handling … so can you talk a little more about how you juggle all those different pieces? Is there an order that makes sense for people as they try and put the things together? Do you work on them in different training sessions? How does that work? How do you approach it?

Barbara Currier: I start with two poles and teach the dog to find the entry from all the different angles, and with speed and enthusiasm right from the start. And then, again, like I mentioned before, the reward comes fast when you're only using two poles, so it's the perfect time to get the dog to think that the game is really, really fun.

I also keep my sessions incredibly short, like, three correct entries on each side and then done. So my dogs are looking at me like, "Seriously, that's it? That's all we get?" And I'm like, "Yes, that's it, we're done. That was the session." And so the more we play this game, and it's super-fast and it's super-fun and it all happens really fast, the more they're like, "Oh my god, this is the most fun game ever." All my dogs love weave poles so much because I keep everything so fast and exciting, and when they're like, "This is the most fun on Earth," I'm like, "Yeah, I know, and we're done now." And they're thinking, "What, what? No, I was just getting into it." And I'm like, "We've got to wait until the next session." So I really want them to love, love the game.

The other thing that's important is that I don't worry about if they're wrong. I want them to make mistakes. If they're not making mistakes, it's too easy. But I also want them to understand that making a mistake is not a big deal. I want them to learn how to fail and just keep trying with the same amount of enthusiasm. Often, dogs, when they make a mistake, they're like, "Oh, I can't do it anymore. It's so hard. That reward didn't come, I can't do it, I can't do it," and then the owner gets stressed and then the dog gets stressed, and suddenly it's a meltdown for everyone. When my dogs make a mistake, it's just, "Oh my god, we're going to try that again!" and they just don't get the reward and they're like, "OK, OK, I'll be better this time. I'll get it, I'll get it." To them, it's just like a mystery they're trying to solve, or a puzzle they're trying to figure out, and so they're super-happy to try again for me and it's not a big deal. There's never any shutdown and "Oh, this is too hard, this is too hard."

Now, if they fail twice in a row, I will take a step back and I might back-train, like, "This maybe standing here at 3 o'clock is a little too hard for you, but what if I stand at 2:30? Can you do it at 2:30?" And we'll go from there. If they're correct a couple of times at 2:30, then I'll go to 2:45 and "How is this? Can we do this now?" And so on and so on.

From there we move to four poles and follow the same thing as above, and then we move on to six poles. Of course we angle them a certain way, and then we gradually make them straighter and straighter. I stay at six poles until I'm in love with the dog's footwork, speed, and understanding of their job.

Oftentimes a lot of people will get to six and then they're like, "Now it's twelve." But the dog doesn't fully understand their job yet, and all we've done by adding in six more is we've just made it harder, we've made the reward farther away, and the dogs really start to slow down. So I'm in no rush to leave six until I'm in love with the behavior the dog is showing me.

I really want them to be confident in their footwork. I really want to see what we talked about earlier, the muscle memory, and not so much the hard thinking about the job. I want all that to come out now, so that when we move on to twelve, then it's just getting the stamina of doing this behavior longer for twelve poles and just getting the speed going for that long of a distance.

Once I have the footwork and the speed that I really like at the twelve, then I'll start working in distractions like, Can you do your weave poles when there's a dog playing tug next to them? Can you do your weave poles if I'm throwing a Frisbee? Can you do your weave poles if I have a plate of chicken next to you? All these things so that when they get into working in a trial environment, the stuff that I like to call my "torture," which my dogs love because it's like a super game to them, that they're like, "Oh yeah, trial distractions. This stuff is easy compared to what Mom does to us at home." Because they get these huge, massive jackpots when they can go through the weave poles when I'm throwing a Frisbee.

I've had a few dogs over the years that were food-driven dogs only, and of course we worked up to this, but one of the things I do with my food-driven dogs for a distraction is I will line the base of the weave poles with steak, and they have to weave over the top of the steak and not touch it. And then, at the end, if they're successful, they can come back and eat all the steak. It's so much fun.

Recently, I have a young group of dogs in a class that just started trialing, and they had been with me since they were 8-week-old puppies. Now they're all trialing and it's been really cool to see. When they were all learning their weave poles, I had a little Sheltie that was very food-driven, not toy-driven, and we did that and she's like, "Oh, she's never going to do it," and she did it like a rockstar. She was like, "Steak on the weave poles, we've got this. I know my job." So it's really, really fun.

Once I work through distraction stuff, then I start handling moves. Can you stay in your poles when I'm front crossing before and after the poles? Can you stay in your poles when I'm rear crossing, when I'm blind crossing? And then I add a jump, and now, Can you do your poles when another piece of equipment's been added to it? Can you do your poles when a jump is after the weave poles, when you see something else coming? Can you do your weave poles when there's a tunnel nearby, when we're going to go to a tunnel? Then, once I'm loving all that stuff, then I add the next six and we do the distractions again, and then we start adding in more difficult sequencing.

Melissa Breau: You've definitely got it down like a method, an approach, and all the pieces are there. I think that's important for people to recognize that you do have to work through all those things systematically.

Barbara Currier: Yeah, for sure.

Melissa Breau: Both in the course description and just now, you mention the idea of having your dog LOVE the weave poles. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like a big piece of that is about confidence, making sure that they know how to do the behavior correctly. Can you talk a little bit about that? How does loving the weaves and confidence, how do those things go hand-in-hand when it comes to getting good performance on course?

Barbara Currier: Like I talked about before, it's all about teaching the dogs that the game is awesome. That means keeping the sessions super-short, making them always want more, making them understand that mistakes are fine, mistakes are not a big deal, and that it's just a puzzle, this didn't work, good try, let's try something else. And the more value that they have in knowing exactly what their job is, the better the performance is going to be and the drive into the weave.

So I do little … I call them mini-weave drills, which I go over in the class too, that I do with my dogs a couple of times a week. I go outside with one stick of cheese, and when that stick of cheese is gone, game over. I take off really big bites, huge hunks, probably an inch piece of cheese, so super-easy to see, not crumbly, and I get maybe four to six pieces of cheese out of one stick. I go out, and whatever course I have set up in my field, and I take all the jumps and I just put the bars in the ground, because for me, when I'm working my mini-weave drills, it's not necessarily about the jumping. It's about the love for the weave.

So I put all the bars in the ground, and then I just randomly walk around the field, and from different approaches of jumps without having bars, I send my dogs to the weaves, sometimes with motion, sometimes with no motion, and I will sometimes do very weird handling moves, things that you would never see in a course. I will send them to the weirdest types of entries.

Sometimes my husband will come out with me, and he doesn't really know agility very well, so I'll say, "Tell me how to get some of these weaves, tell me something." He'll be like, "All right. Go from that jump to the weave." And it's completely random, she has to skip, like, four jumps, or do this massive, crazy entry, and we do it and it's fun and she thinks it's the most amazing game. I do that a couple of times a week and it's super-easy, it's quick, she gets these big hunks of cheese, which are like a meal for her, and so she thinks that weave poles are the most fun thing in the world to do.

In fact, my agility field is fenced off from the rest of my property, so when the dogs are outside, they can't get into the agility field. They all run to the field gate all the time, and if I let them in, the first thing they do is run over to the weave poles because they're like, "Oh, are we doing those drills? Because those are super-fun." That's what you want to get from your dogs, and that's going to get that performance. When I'm at trials and I say to my dogs, "Go weave," they hit those weaves with such intensity and such stride, and they dig in so hard to get those entries and keep those poles, and they work so hard because I created so much value for the poles.

Melissa Breau: To take a little bit of a step back, I guess, when people are working on things, what are some of the common training mistakes people make as they're trying to teach weaves? What problems do they cause? If you're looking at a little bit of problem-solving there, what do you see people doing that maybe isn't optimal?

Barbara Currier: The biggest one is moving too fast. Moving to twelve poles before the dog is solid at six. I tell my students there's no trophy or title for the person who can train their weaves the fastest.

When people get six, they're like, "I'm just going to add on the next six and it's going to be great," because we all want to say, "My dog has twelve poles," but all you're doing by moving too fast is that the dog is not clear on what their job is, you're getting slow, inconsistent weaves that have to be managed or babysat because the dog doesn't really understand. So they're just going to get slower and slower, and they're going to get frustrated because they're going to be confused, and then you're going to get frustrated, and it becomes this vicious cycle.

That's usually when people start coming to me and "My dog can get the entries, but they can't hold on," that type of thing. So then they come to me, and I often find that they moved to twelve poles before the dogs really understood six, and my advice is always, "Let's go back to the beginning. We need to redo this."

Melissa Breau: My next question is, how do you problem-solve some of those issues? Do you basically just do that, take a step back, go back to six poles and retrain all those different aspects before you go back to twelve, or is there more to it?

Barbara Currier: It depends exactly what the issue is. The most common problems are missing entries at speed. If it's a missing entry problem, I usually recommend that we go back to two poles, so that we can start with, Can you find your entry from all different areas without having to have the dog wait for the reward to get through all six poles, if that makes sense. Because, again, the reward comes quicker on two poles than it does on six poles, so it's easier gratification for the dog. So I like to, for missed entries, start back at two poles, and then I work up to the four, up to the six.

Now, with a dog that already understands the concept of poles, it goes really fast. It doesn't take long at all to revisit these things and get the dog to understand. If the dog is having problems with they get their entry, but then they can't hold on to the poles because they're going at speed, then I will start them back at four poles or six poles, but add in sequencing, so coming off of a tunnel so we've got some speed, and teaching them how to grab that entry and hold on to the poles.

With that, they also need to be building up some muscling for it. And so a lot of it, I think, with those dogs comes from doing more straight-on approaches and not enough of the angle approaches from the very beginning, where they can build up that strength along their spine.

One of the other ones is the popping out at ten poles, which a lot of dogs do. Oftentimes I find those are from the handlers that try to lead the dogs, whether they're going lateral, or they're trying to get a little bit ahead, and they never taught the independent poles from the beginning. They really babysat the poles because they wanted the dog to be right so badly, so they stayed back and they matched the dog's speed and they were right there, but once they wanted to put them into sequencing, they wanted to leave, but we didn't actually teach the dog that, and so now the dogs are like, "Well, you're leaving, so I'm leaving too." So when I teach this from the very beginning, it is completely independent from the handler. We are quite far away from the beginning. We have nothing to do with it, we don't help them, we don't lure them through the entry, we don't do any of that. It's all on them.

So it's quite easy the way I teach it from the beginning to have that lateral independence, because we teach it to them from the very beginning, as long as you continue with it. Because oftentimes what I'll see is the dogs have these amazing independence when we get through the end of the training, but then the owners go right back to babysitting and then the dogs will lose it. So I have to constantly remind my students, "Your dog has the skill. Trust them. Let them show you they can do it, and leave them."

Melissa Breau: This is a question I don't usually ask here on the podcast, but I used to love, back when I was a journalist asking this question, because it seems to always get unexpected nuggets of interesting information, and since I have never trained a dog to weave and don't know a ton about the topic, obviously you're the expert — is there anything important that I didn't think to ask or that you'd want people to think about as they're working on weave poles with their dog?

Barbara Currier: Probably the most important thing about weave poles that I think sometimes gets overlooked, forgotten, or people don't think it's as important as it should be is: your dog must be done with growing before you teach weave poles.

Like I said in the beginning, it's one of the hardest obstacles on their body, and I always make sure, when I have young dogs, that I take them and have them x-rayed to be positive that their growth plates have closed before I start training weave poles. You can do a lot of damage to them. It's very hard on their shoulders, it's very hard on their spine, it can be hard on their neck, and it's not something you want to do until you're a hundred percent sure that they are done growing.

The other great thing about doing the x-rays is that usually, around 14 months, I always have full x-rays done of shoulders, elbows, hips, and knees, and so, one, I can tell if the growth plates are closed or not closed, and depending on your breed … I have a student that has a borzoi, and she x-rayed her at 14 months and her growth plates were nowhere near done being closed. But she's a Borzoi, but it was good information to have, because we certainly, especially with a breed that large, don't want to be doing even contacts, if their growth plates aren't closed, and hers didn't close for quite a while after that, so that's really important information to have.

It also gives you a picture of what your dog's body looks like before you do the sport with them, whether you've got any elbow dysplasia or hip dysplasia. Without getting a picture, some dogs don't even show these things, and to me, I just think it's super-important to know what you're starting off with.

Melissa Breau: Right, right, and I would imagine it's good to have those, heaven forbid they do get injured at some point later on, you have a baseline, a picture to refer to.

Barbara Currier: Yes. For sure. The other thing that I always … and I bring this up in the class, too, is if I have somebody come up to me and they say, "My dog has always weaved really well, and they're now popping out at pole ten," or "They can't hit their entry, but they never had a problem with it before," my first thought is, Your dog probably has an injury, and that needs to be addressed first.

As all the Fenzi instructors try to teach, dogs are not out to try to make us mad and push our buttons. That's not the way dogs work. So if your dog is all of a sudden exhibiting something that is unusual for them, the first thing I check is injuries.

My poodle, who loves her weave poles, a tell for me that she has a rib out is if she misses her weave entry, because she never misses weave entries. So if she can't hold on, I immediately leave the ring and will bring her to a chiropractor, and sure enough, she'll have a rib out. I certainly don't want her running with a rib out. I don't know if you've ever had a rib out before, but it is incredibly painful, and I don't want her running like that.

And so I let my dogs tell me. I don't just assume, "Oh, she's being bad," or "She's being lazy." I assume, "Oh, you're really trying to tell me something, and what you're telling me is, 'That really hurts, I need some help here.'" Once we get everything back, she's totally fine, but I certainly wouldn't want to be annoyed at her and expect her to run all weekend like that. So that's something that I try to instill in my students is make sure that we're thinking about that, first and foremost.

Sometimes there is … something's happened. Sometimes what can happen is if they get an injury, the injury is then fixed, but they now associate poles with pain. And so sometimes we have to go back and desensitize them to that and say, "Look, see, it doesn't hurt anymore, so we can do these again." Or something has happened and our training has whittled away and we need to go back and take a look at that. But I always try to stress that people make sure that somebody checks them first that it's not an injury or something going on that way that's affecting their weave poles.

Melissa Breau: Let's chat about the course for a minute. It's called "Love 'em and Weave 'em," and it's on the calendar for December, which this is coming out on, I believe, the 16th of November, so registration will be opening the week after this comes out. What level of training should dogs and handlers have, if they're interested in the class? Can you talk a little bit about that, and what you'll cover, who it's designed for, that kind of stuff?

Barbara Currier: For this class, the dogs should already know weave poles. It moves a little too fast for a dog that doesn't know weave poles. I think later on in the year Julie Daniels has a foundation weave class coming up, and that would be the class for the dogs that don't know weave poles at all yet. But this one is for dogs that know weaves, but the handlers aren't in love with the performance.

It will address all the common problems: the going too slow, the inconsistent footwork, the getting the entry but not being able to hang on, missing the entry, popping out pole ten, it will address all of those things.

It will also give you the independence so that you can put them in the weaves and leave them and get to where you need to go next. The way I think about my weave poles is, when I send my dog through a tunnel, I want to just be able to say "tunnel," and know that they're going to come out the other end. I'm not expecting that they're going try to dig out the middle of the tunnel. So I want my weave poles to be the same way. When I send you in Pole 1, I expect to see you exit at Pole 12, and I'm going to go do what I need to do. That's your job, I've got my job, we'll meet at the end, is my theory. So that's what this course will teach.

Melissa Breau: One last question – it's the question I've been asking everybody when they come back on. What's a lesson you've learned or been reminded of recently when it comes to dog training?

Barbara Currier: Probably to train the dog that's in front of you. Often we go out expecting to train one thing, and the dog's telling us that they need to work on something completely different. And we really have to listen to them and be flexible in what they need, because if you think about it, they're the ones doing the hard work. They're the ones running and jumping and doing all of this crazy stuff. Oftentimes I go out with my plan of, "Today we're going to go out and work on threadles," and my dog says, "No, today I'm struggling with my start line stay, and so that's what we're going to end up working on." So you have to be willing to abort mission and listen to what the dog is telling you.

Sometimes my dog says, "You know what, I'm not feeling it today," and I say, "All right, let's go play a game instead," or "Let's go for a hike," because I wake up some mornings and don't want to work, and my dogs are no different. So you really need to listen to your dogs and hear what they're trying to tell us.

And also to embrace and love the dog that you have and stop mourning the dog that they're not.

Melissa Breau: Thank you so much for coming back on the podcast Barbara! I love that.

Barbara Currier: Thanks for having me. It's so much fun!

Melissa Breau: It is! And thank you to all of our listeners for tuning in! We'll be back next week, this time with Amy Cook to talk about noise sensitivity in dogs and what you can do about it.

If you haven't already, subscribe to our podcast in iTunes or the podcast app of your choice to have our next episode automatically downloaded to your phone as soon as it becomes available.

Credits 

​Today's show is brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. Special thanks to Denise Fenzi for supporting this podcast. Music provided royalty-free by BenSound.com; the track featured here is called "Buddy." Audio editing provided by Chris Lang.

Thanks again for tuning in -- and happy training!