NW145: To Boldly Go… Shaping a Confident Nosework Dog

 

Pre-class lecture & basic shaping exercises

Lecture: The Basics of Shaping 

 

This pre-class lecture will focus on the fundamentals for successful shaping.  In upcoming class weeks we will apply this understanding of shaping to specific training exercises that will support the development of confidence and enthusiasm in dogs during nosework training & trialing.  

 

Often people are confused and uncertain about the technique of shaping as a training tool.  It’s true that there is conflicting information out there and that sometimes you’ve gotten some bad advice about it.  That stops now!  In this class we will get and keep you on the right track so that you can support your dog through the shaping process and have a very successful outcome.  This may require that you throw away any preconceived notions about what shaping is or how to go about it, and start fresh here.  

 

What is shaping and why is it important?

 

Ask 10 trainers to define shaping and, while you might get similar basic definitions, you’ll likely get wildly different approaches.  This is likely one reason that many have simply avoided shaping.  If the “experts” can’t even agree how are you ever going to get it right?  I understand completely.  In this course I am going to simplify the process as much as possible, while still remaining true to the basic science behind it.  Shaping sometimes seems like a magical mystical process only understood by a few.  That’s not really the case at all.  Most trainers are already using shaping in some form or the other, whether they realize it or not.  

 

The basic definition of shaping is “developing behavior by reinforcing successive approximations to the target behavior”.  That definition requires a bit of unpacking for sure!  Successive approximations refers to accepting behaviors that are leading towards what we want rather than waiting for perfection, or even for reasonably close.  To be able to see an approximation means we can think in tiny little elements and recognize something our dog does that will lead us to the desired outcome.  At first, you won’t even see anything happening at all, even though something is actually there.  It’s an observational learning process for the trainer.  You will learn to see what you were missing before.  

 

This actually addresses the issue of setting and changing criteria (our standard for reinforceable behavior).  This is challenging because it’s a constantly changing target.  What you reinforce in one repetition is likely to be different from what you reinforce in the next.  Setting appropriate criteria, and knowing when to change, is an art and a delicate balance.  You can only learn to do this well through trial and error (and reviewing your videotaped sessions!)

The target behavior part of the definition is more obvious; it’s your ultimate outcome or goal.  It’s the thing you want your dog to do.  The mistake we make in shaping is to focus only on that behavior and not the small pieces that lead our dog there.  If we wait for our dogs to spontaneously offer something that resembles our idea of the target behavior we are likely to be quite disappointed and frustrated.  And so will our dogs!  Good shaping starts very very small and builds up to the final picture.

 

Types of Shaping:

 

Please note that these definitions of different types of shaping are purely my own.  I’ve heard other trainers use very different terminology or use these terms in different ways.  This lexicon is for the purpose of shared communication in this course.  

 

There are actually many different types of shaping, and people don’t always specify which type they are talking about or where it falls.  There’s “pure” shaping, where you are shaping behaviors without adding in any other techniques.  The only communication between you and your dog is the marker & reinforcer.  

 

To contrast that with “directed” shaping means that you may also be using luring or targeting to develop a new behavior.  Some people have been taught that this is a big no-no.  They have been told that only pure shaping will do.  This might be the case in certain situations or for specific behaviors, but it is definitely not always the case.  It is possible to use shaping as one part of a sequenced process of training.  You might use pure shaping at first, then go to targeting.  Or you might use luring for a few repetitions to “jump start” something, then move to shaping.  Mixing techniques can be both appropriate and helpful, and we will talk about that as class progresses.

 

Then there is “free” shaping.  In this subtype you are typically in the process of helping your dog become comfortable with the concept of offering behaviors.  We would say that you are teaching your dog to be operant (learning that his behavior leads to reinforcement).  You would therefore reinforce anything your dog offers (with an eye towards variability in behavior).  We do this with puppies and dogs new to the shaping process to help them understand that trying different things leads to reinforcement.  

 

And then there is “structured” shaping.  When you use this form of shaping you are working towards developing a specific goal behavior.  Most people are actually using structured shaping when they say they are shaping.  They have a target behavior in mind and are moving closer and closer to it through selective reinforcement.  

 

What we want to avoid when shaping is adding “help” in the form of prompting, pointing, and verbal encouragement.  This tends to make things harder rather than easier.  Other than the marker and treat delivery it’s usually best to remain quiet and still.  Anything you do will draw your dog’s focus towards you and away from his own actions.  Instead of the dog focusing on the task; he is focusing on the trainer.  This slows down the process.  For this reason we recommend that the trainer is as neutral as possible and allow the dog to work out the training puzzle you’ve presented him.  If he truly needs help then the task is likely too challenging and needs to be restructured.  

 

Shaping Basics:

 

The effective use of markers & treats is a huge step in the direction of successful shaping sessions.  You’ll need two basic markers: a general behavioral marker and a treat toss release marker.  The general marker can be a clicker or a verbal.  This marker tells your dog that he is on the right track with a behavior and that reinforcement is now coming.  The treat toss release marker tells your dog that you are going to toss a cookie for him to chase and eat.  Treat toss releases are used to reset for another repetition and also as a way to keep your reinforcement rate high if your dog is having difficulty.  

 

It’s a good idea to be sure that your markers are serving you well during shaping sessions.  A few sessions dedicated to clarifying and strengthening your markers is a really good idea.  

 

Video 1:  Markers

 

 

Choose your treats wisely!  

 

Some general guidelines about treats for shaping include size (small/medium is better), texture (softer is easier to swallow quickly), color (contrasts with the floor for treat tosses), shape (round rolls well for treat tosses), and value (start medium and only go higher if absolutely necessary).  It’s also fine to use variety in treats, but if some treats are seen as valuable and others not so much, you may be giving unintended information to your dog.  

 

Avoid treats that are mushy, crumbly, or chewy.  These simply make the process messy and sloppy.  

 

Does your dog need to be food motivated in order for shaping to work?  While I’ll say “no” in the bigger picture, I will also say that for this class it’s necessary.  Shaping with reinforcers other than food is much more complex and time consuming.  We don’t have the ability to appropriately address those issues here.  

 

Timing is everything!

 

Timing is a motor skill.  It’s the ability to see the desired behavior and deliver the marker as quickly as possible.  Ideally the marker happens while the behavior is happening, which means that, in reality, we are predicting the behavior.  In reality, we are often “off” with our timing; being either too early or too late.  A repeated consistent pattern of this can lead our dogs down the wrong shaping path pretty easily, so it pays to practice your timing until you are at least “in the ballpark” most of the time.  Some people find they have better timing with a clicker and others with a verbal; the one you use is totally up to you.  

 

Hands on timing practice without the dog:

 

Video 2: Deb & Judy shaping game videos

 

 

 

In addition to timing we have the issue of time (the duration of your training session).  I am going to insist that your shaping sessions be one minute or less.  There are many good reasons for this limit.  First, as an instructor I can see everything I need to see in a minute or less.  Second, if a session is going poorly then going on longer is not the way to fix it!  Just the opposite.  Third, short sessions help maintain your dog’s attitude and enthusiasm.  Fourth, reviewing short sessions allows us to begin the next session with a better plan and more appropriate approach.  

 

Being creative & thoughtful with your props & set ups

 

In this class you’ll need to be creative about setting up for the exercises. You are unlikely to have the exact same objects or spaces you see in the demonstration videos.  It’s fine to use items around your house.  Just be sure that your set ups are safe and that your dog is comfortable with them.  

 

We are encouraging exploration and bravery, so we need to be 1000% positive that we have set ups that are sturdy and supportive.  If something unintended happens during an exercise, such as a prop falling & startling your dog, this can cause setbacks.  Do your best to avoid this.  If it does happen though, exit the situation as quickly as possible and do a huge cookie scatter in an area where your dog feels safe.  Then wait for a day and go back to a much easier version of the exercise.  

 

Bravery and boldness are built on success, trust, and confidence.  We will never put our dogs in situations that might be dangerous.  We do our best to be careful, thoughtful, and supportive.  As our dogs are successful they then are ready and willing to approach even bigger challenges.  If in doubt, always set an easier challenge first.  When you see success there then make it harder.  If you see signs that your dog is overly concerned or tentative stop immediately and decrease the challenge level.  

 

If you have questions or concerns about the appropriateness or safety of your set up or props let us have a look before you introduce your dog to it.  

 

Introducing shaping to your dog

 

I like to begin with some very informal free shaping sessions.  The goal is to provide a clear and stress free introduction to shaping so that your dog begins to understand the purpose of this training technique.  As I’ve discussed earlier, the goal in free shaping is to help the dog understand that behavior, any behavior, will lead to reinforcement.  The very worst possible initial introduction to shaping is one that allows the dog to become either frustrated or bored.  If your dog has this experience early in the training process you will have a more difficult road.  It’s certainly possible to turn things around, but harder.  So it really pays to think carefully and set up initial shaping sessions very thoughtfully.  

 

Here are the general guidelines I follow in early shaping sessions:

 

Familiar somewhat boring training environment

Moderate to high value small soft treats

You can use a clicker or marker word, your choice

Large novel prop that is safe for a variety of interactions (medium to large cardboard boxes are a good initial choice)

Timer or stopwatch

 

Before you introduce your dog to the training environment have everything prepared.  Your treats should be easy to reach but not in your hand (pocket, pack, or container is fine).  Have the prop ready but don’t put it on the ground until you are prepared to start.  Have your timer or stopwatch ready to set.  

 

Once all this is in place then bring your dog into the training space.  Set your timer for 30 seconds, put your prop on the ground, keep your focus on the prop, and mark & treat everything your dog does that involves orienting to the prop.  It’s important that you focus on the prop and keep your dog in your peripheral vision.  If you focus on your dog he’s likely to focus back on you and then we have a staring contest, not a shaping session.  

 

Your goal is to be as generous with reinforcement as possible.  You want to get rid of as many treats as you can as fast as you can.  Right now, waiting for “more” is the kiss of death.  Just reinforce any and everything you can.  Provide your treats close to the prop.  When your timer goes off tell your dog he’s done, toss a few treats on the floor for him, pick up your prop, and put it out of sight/reach for a minute or so.  Repeat this process 3-4 times in a session.  You can do up to 3 sessions a day.  

 

The purpose of this exercise is to teach your dog that anything he does associated with the prop will be reinforced.  At this point there is no one target behavior; there are infinite possibilities for what your dog might offer, and you want to catch and reinforce as many as you can.  Don’t worry about quality; this exercise is about quantity of behavior.  

 

You’ll know you’re on the right track when you put the prop down and your dog enthusiastically begins to interact with it.  

 

Video 3:  Basic Free Shaping