FE430: From Start to Finished!

Lecture #6 Introduce proofing (fluency):

The word proofing is the traditional obedience word for making your dog strong in the face of distractions. Nowadays positive reinforcement trainers often use the word fluency instead, which is the generally accepted “science” word. I don’t care that much which word you use, but I do care that you understand the concept. Here are the basics:

Teach your dog a basic foundation skill in your house or another super easy training space. No fluency required!

Now add a teeny tiny distraction. An example might be that if you normally carry the food in your hand, put it on the table nearby. Make sure it’s out of reach of your dog! We don’t want your dog to fail. But we are going to help your dog understand that they’re not going to get that cookie unless they pay attention to you. Why not start with something very simple like sit, or even just basic eye contact.
Okay
Now increase that challenge level just a tiny bit. Maybe now it’s a little bit lower. Or maybe the food is more appealing. Or maybe the behavior you asked for is a tiny bit more challenging for your dog. One criterion is going to be raised at a time.

Here is a simple proofing video example with Brito:

The video is not edited so you can see how I handle a variety of general errors. The cue we are working on is the the same one we worked through in last week’s lesson; go around a cone. First the cookie is on the top of the jump. Then it’s in a container so he can’t get to it. Then the container is on the floor. Then it’s on the floor open, and then is closer to him.I call him past cookies, send him close to cookies, etc. Eventually, I would like to be further away, with the cookie directly in his path, outdoors, and possibly with more going on - we’re not quite there yet. But remember... one step at a time. The idea is to present a slightly different challenge each time; varying the intensity (quality of treat), distance (from where he needs to be to perform well) and challenge level (open or closed; floor or out of reach. Notice that I choose to stay close to the cone; the only challenge here is ignoring the exposed treat.

The following gives you a list of ways one might proof the cone exercise that do not necessarily include distractions. These are simply variations of the exercise itself:

Proofing

Will your dog go around the cone if:

You send without a hand signal?
If you send him back around a cone that is behind him?
He doesn't’ see you place it?
A plate of food is on top of it?
Cookies are few feet behind it?
He has to walk over or past a cookie to get to it?
The cone is placed in a narrow space?
There are jumps or other obstacles on the sides?
A jump is between you and the cone?
You start out from heeling and send in motion?
Two cones are placed 180 degrees apart with you in the middle, and you send to one and then the other?
There are three cones placed in a cloverleaf pattern?

When adding proofing, start close to your dog to allow for success, and add distance as your dog shows readiness. The goal is success and to build on success - not to set up for failure!

And if your dog fails? Goes for a cookie? As a general rule, I just let the dog eat the first one; Now you are on notice. You must make it easier for the next repetition. What you really want to avoid is controlling the dog. It’s always okay to control the cookie, but whenever you control the dog you are actually undermining your dog’s ability to control themselves.

It is also an option to have someone else help you out. If you have a helper, then their job is to protect the cookie. Ignore the dog’s error. In that way your dog will figure it out.

Week #3; Assignment #1: Now it’s your turn. Pick one of your foundation behaviors and let’s talk (before you show) about adding a bit of complexity through distraction training - we’re building fluency here - proofing. If you feel like you already understand this, go ahead and show me. If you need some help, maybe start with the example I did with Brito but make it as easy as needed to be successful. If your dog fails, it’s no big deal. You can interrupt if you want, or you can just ignore it and make sure the next repetition is a little bit easier. Notice that I include failure in my above videos you could see how I handled it. I’d like to see a video of you and your dog; remember to set up for success!