Course Details
If you're looking for a structured course designed to teach your dog the basic skills that every dog needs to know for success as a pet, sport or working dog, or all three, then this course is for you. This class will teach the trainer "how to teach," and how to prepare your dog to perform under increasingly challenging circumstances.
Sue Ailsby's Training Levels are being used by pet trainers, sport instructors, and working dog schools all over the world. Now you can let Sue's program guide you through them!
The training levels are designed to create a training base for ALL dogs. There are four Levels with behaviours designed to teach both dog AND trainer. Every lesson supports later lessons, with early behaviours taught, diversified, and proofed to provide a solid foundation for all later lessons, be they pet, sport, or working behaviours.
The focus of this course is not only the actual behaviors taught; the core is teaching YOU how to ensure that your dog can still perform under distracting conditions and when the "picture" looks different. We'll take a variety of basic behaviors (which we'll teach for those who need them and expand for those who have them) and teach you how to get them under a wide range of circumstances. In a nutshell, proofing, and generalization!
No matter what the future has in store for your dog, there are basic skills that will make both your lives easier, if your dog can perform them reliably under a variety of circumstances.
For example, a good pet needs to know how to be handled, to be groomed and cared for. She needs to come when she's called, to park herself on a dog bed and stay there while you eat or have visitors. She needs to ride calmly in a car, to stay away from your food, and...a few tricks to impress your friends wouldn't hurt either.
In addition, a good pet trainer needs to know how to apply the principles of training to new problems that crop up.
A good sport or working dog needs to be able to handle distractions, to stay focused on her performance, and to quickly and cheerfully learn new skills as you progress through the levels of your chosen sports
This class is the "correct" choice for almost anyone who wants to develop their dog to her fullest potential; regardless of future career path!
School? Already? Will that be fun?
Oh my yes, little one! You have no idea how much fun we're going to have!
NOTE: Class lecture materials are as originally prepared by Sue Ailsby who has now retired from active teaching. Sue will not participate in any of the homework or discussion forums. All class forum feedback will be handled by FDSA instructor Heather Lawson.
Teaching Approach
Lectures are released at the start of each week with the majority of lectures released within the first 4 weeks. The lectures are broken down by each skill; highlighting multiple parts. Each lecture has the objective of the exercise, applications followed by written instructions, and video examples for each of the steps. The videos are generally 1 to 2min long and show actual training sessions. No voiceover is used during the video however, subtitle explanations are part of the video content. Homework summaries can be found at the end of lectures.
Instructor: Sue AilsbySusan Finlay Ailsby (she/her) has retired from active teaching for FDSA. She is a retired obedience and conformation judge. She has been "in dogs" for 54 years, having owned and trained Chihuahuas, miniature pinschers, miniature longhaired dachshunds, Australian cattle dogs, miniature schnauzers, giant schnauzers, and Portuguese...(Click here for full bio and to view Sue's self-study courses)
Instructor: Heather LawsonHeather Lawson (she/her) is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Skills Assessed (CPDT-KSA) and also a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner (KPA-CTP), a CGN evaluator and a free-style judge. She has been training dogs and their humans for more that 20 years after deciding that...(Click here for full bio and to view Heather's upcoming courses)
Syllabus
WARNING: this class starts easy, for dog and for trainer. It STAYS easy for both - but it does take more time as it goes along!
ZEN
- dog moves away from treat in No hand
- dog stays away from treat in No hand for 5 seconds
- dog stays away from treat in open hand for 5 seconds
- dog stays awy from treat in dog dish
- increasing duration, difficulty, duration, distance
COME
- dog looks for treats at trainer's feet
- dog runs 10 feet between two people
- dog plays the Come Game 10 feet between two people
- dog plays the Come Game 20 feet between two people
- dog plays the Come Game 10 feet between two people for different rewards
SIT
- dog sits with leash off
- dog sits on hand signal
- dog sits with leash on
- dog sits by open door
- dog sits with no treats on trainer
TARGET
- dog's nose to Yes hand
- dog targets high and low
- dog moves 3 steps to target
- dog touches twice for one treat
- Station or the Bucket Game
DOWN
- dog downs with leash off
- dog downs on hand signal
- dog downs on mat
- dog goes to mat to down
- adding duration, difficulty, duration, and distance to mat downs
BEGINNING LOOSE LEASH
- dog is rewarded in The Zone
- dog moves away from collar pressure
- dog and handler move 3 steps away from collar pressure
- dog walks 3 steps with turn
- dog walks towards focal point
Prerequisites & Supplies
You'll need a pup or dog, or a cat or horse, llama or bird, or any other animal that will work for food. How soon can you start a puppy? I'd give her a couple of days to settle in to your house after you get her, so that makes it about 8.5 weeks. If you're using a homebred pup, you can start at 6 weeks.
And you'll need a desire to teach that critter to be as prepared as possible for the life you want her to live, whether that be as a pet, a sport dog, a working dog, or all three.
Supplies:
Friends and/or family. If we want our dogs to work around other people, we need to teach them around other people. Many times other people won't even have to know we're using them. Other times, we'll need their cooperation to play different games with us.
A clicker if at all possible. You CAN use your voice if you have to.
Treats. The smallest treat the dog will pay attention to. No, not a Milk-Bone. Roast beast. Hot dogs. Commercial treats. Cheese. Liverwurst. No spices, please.
Places to train. Most training in Level 1 will be in and around your house.
A leash and a buckle collar, or a PLAIN harness.
A slightly raised mat of some kind, a dog bed, a folded blanket, or flat cushion.
A video camera if you're signing up for Gold - and highly recommended for Silver and Bronze as well so you can watch your videos and see things you missed the first time around - or see how brilliantly you're doing. Most cell phone cameras will do nicely.
You'll also need a variety of household objects. Nothing special, we'll use what's available.
Sample Lecture
TL1 TARGET STEP 4
EQUIPMENT
- Your Yes hand.
- Clicker and treats.
TARGET STEP 4 - The dog targets your hand twice to get one treat.
This is a big step. Your dog is about to realize that every behaviour doesn't get a click. Sometimes she has to work harder to make the click happen.
First, a little philosophy. EVERY SINGLE CLICK GETS A TREAT. I've said that before - unless, of course, you click her for biting somebody, or for peeing on the rug. Then you just apologize (oh, sorry, didn't mean that one) and move on. Otherwise, though, EVERY SINGLE CLICK GETS A TREAT. Click means YOU DID IT! Now you're done! Congratulations, here's your treat!
Here's how you move on - every single BEHAVIOUR doesn't get a CLICK, but every single click gets a treat.
Get her started touching your hand. Get that often enough and enthusiastic enough that you know she's really in the game, having a good time with this simple thing (look, Binky! I can make mom give me a treat! All I have to do is bop her hand!).
When she's in full bop mode, "forget" to click once. A look of annoyance should cross her face, and then she should give you what I call the "Hey Stupid" reaction - Hey! Stupid! I TOUCHED YOUR HAND! Didn't you notice? Here, let me show you again. Pay attention this time, eh?
And she'll bop your hand again. Actually, she'll likely bop it harder, but harder or not, you've now gotten two bops for the price of one. Click and treat!
Bop click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop. !! BOP! click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop click treat.
Bop. !!! BOP! click treat.
And so on.
If she doesn't give you that second bop, you need to Chute! and do more singles, then try the double again.
TRY IT COLD
Without the warmup, ask for the bop, wait for the second one, click, treat.
CUES
I try to use a voice cue for each touch. The presence of your Yes hand is, of course, her main cue.
COMEAFTERS
Start from scratch. Teach her to touch your foot instead of your hand. Can she touch the end of a stick? When I started teaching llamas to touch the end of a stick (for shows, because it's very difficult to lure an animal with your hand when her neck is four feet long!), I wrapped coloured tape around the end. Turns out that wasn't necessary. If you click for touching the END of the stick, any animal is smart enough to aim for the end. How would you teach her to touch a wall?
Can she touch your hand three times for one click?
Testimonials & Reviews
A sampling of what prior students have said about this course ...
I plan to be a lifelong student of the Levels! As a new trainer, coming into the dog training world without any guidance is very overwhelming. Once I found the Levels, I breathed a huge sigh of relief because it felt like I had finally found something that made my brain relax enough to actually learn something! I feel like this is how I like to think it seems to my dogs as well. Splitting is a magical thing and I am so grateful for the enormous amount of work, time, skill and experience that it has taken to achieve this master volume of teachings! Thank you.
Thank you so much! Loved the logical progression of each step and how it becomes the foundation for something more advanced. "Chuting" in new situations/locations makes so much sense. In process of working through the steps with each of my dogs (ranging in age from 4 years - 12 years) and they love it - it is a fun time for them and me!!
This is an amazing course - incredibly well thought-out, well-structured and it really works! The transformation I saw in my dog (and the handler) throughout the course was unbelievable.
I have loved this course. I am always spoilt for choice with Fenzi courses and was tempted to skip Level 1 as I thought it was a "bit easy". How wrong I was!!! I think I have learnt more about effective dog training from this course than almost anything else I have ever done. I am so glad I took the advice on the forum not to skip the first level as this has been a game changer for me. Sue is a wonderfully knowledgeable and effective instructor. She is very generous with her feedback and she is a brilliant communicator. Can't wait for level 2 to begin. Lorraine
Levels 1 was such an awakening to basic training that I thought I had covered. Recognizing many previously overlooked training opportunities that enrich the lives of my dogs and me in addition to relieving stressful situations for us both.
Excellent class, more than I'd even hoped for. My appreciation for the Levels training method continues to grow as I use it and learn more about it through your books and this class. Your skill as an instructor is astounding (though it shouldn't be!!) because you slice through to the heart of the matter and break the challenge or obstacle down so beautifully that it is one of those smack the head moments. I am very grateful for your time and generosity and for the gift that you share with your students--and through them all the dogs that they touch.
Registration
NOTE: Class lecture materials are as originally prepared by Sue Ailsby who has now retired from active teaching. Sue will not participate in any of the homework or discussion forums. All class forum feedback will be handled by FDSA instructor Heather Lawson.
There are no scheduled sessions for this class at this time. We update our schedule frequently, so please
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Available until December 15 as a prerequisite purchase with lectures only for the December session.
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